What actually happens at a custom cowboy hat fitting
Thirty minutes at the bench, then two to three weeks of building. Here is exactly what we do, so there is no mystery when you sit down.
Step 1: Measure twice
A cloth tape around the head where the hat will sit, plus a second measurement front-to-back over the crown. Head shape matters as much as circumference: a long oval wears a round hat badly, and we adjust the block, not your head.
Step 2: Choose the felt
Weight, finish and colour. Lightweight felt takes a crisp crease and dresses up; heavier felt holds a deep cattleman and shrugs off weather. Bring the outfit you wear most, or a photo of it; colour reads differently in daylight than under shop lights.
Step 3: Crown and brim
- Crown height: 4 to 4.5 inches suits most faces and still fits in a truck.
- Crease: cattleman for every day, brick or Gus for a stronger look.
- Brim: 3.5–4 inches for all-round use, wider for shade, narrower for a dress hat.
- Curl: up on the sides, down at the front, or flat with a slight pencil roll.
Step 4: Blocking and shaping
This is the part that cannot be done by mail. Felt is steamed until it is workable, pulled over a block, and set. Then we shape the crease by hand, let it cool, and check it on your head in the mirror before anything is finished.
Step 5: Finish
Sweatband, liner, a leather band or horsehair stampede string, and a stamp if you want one. We will write the measurements in our book so a second hat matches the first.
Cost, time and adjustments
| Item | Price | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Fur felt, made to order | From $395 | 2–3 weeks |
| Straw, shaped to size | From $85 | Often same week |
| Clean and reshape | $35 | Walk-in, about 20 minutes |
Custom hats are final sale, but fit is not: return within 60 days and we re-block, pad or adjust the sweatband at no charge. Can't come in? Send four photos and a head measurement and we will fit you by video — see the hats page to book.